The game of darts: rules, board and equipment

Darts has become big in the Netherlands, and for good reason: all you need is a board, three darts and a bit of wall. On this page you will read how the game works, how to set up your dartboard and what to look out for with darts, flights and shafts. Do you already know what you are looking for? Start the selection guide and we will immediately prepare the right darts for you.

How does the game work?

The best-known game format is 501. Both players start on 501 points and take turns throwing three darts. You subtract your score from the remaining points and must finish exactly on zero. The last dart must be a double: the outer ring or the bull's-eye.

If you go below zero, or end up on 1 point, your turn is invalid ("bust") and you start the next turn again on your old score. Other variants are 301, 701 and 1001; for beginners tactics (closing out the numbers 10 to 20 and the bull three times each) is a fun and less calculation-intensive start.

The dartboard: 82 segments

A dartboard has 82 segments: twenty numbered segments (1 to 20) plus the bull in the middle.

  • Bull's-eye (red, middle): 50 points
  • Single bull (green ring around it): 25 points
  • Outer ring of a segment: double value
  • Inner ring (triple): triple value – triple 20 is therefore 60 points, the highest score with one dart
  • The two remaining areas of a segment: single value

Everything outside the outer ring counts for 0 points, just like a dart that lands next to the board or falls out.

Setting up your dartboard

With these measurements you play according to the official rules:

  • Bull's-eye height: 1.73 m from the floor
  • Distance from throw line to board: 2.37 m (measured from the front of the board)
  • Diagonal from the center of the board to the oche: 2.934 m – handy for checking your setup
  • Oche: at least 61 cm wide, 3.8 to 6 cm high
  • Space for a matchboard: approximately 4 m long, 3 m wide and 3 m high. Less is sufficient at home.

Make sure you have good lighting without your darts casting a shadow on the board: an LED light ring around the board solves that in one go. A surround protects your wall from misses and a dart mat with oche protects your floor and immediately indicates the correct distance.

Which dartboard should you choose?

Almost all serious boards are bristle boards: pressed sisal fibres with metal wiring around the segments. The difference between an entry-level board and a top board is mainly in that wiring:

  • Thick, round wiring with staples – great to start with, but you will get a bouncer more often (a dart that bounces back).
  • Thin, triangular wiring that lies in the board – such as with the Winmau Blade and Unicorn Eclipse. The dart slides along the wire into the segment, so fewer bouncers and more scoring area.

Rotate your board regularly by one segment: it will wear evenly and last for years. Prefer soft tip? Check out the electronic boards. Everything is available at dartboards, or choose a complete dart set in which the board, darts and accessories are already assembled.

The dart in four parts

A set consists of three darts and each dart of four parts: tip, barrel, shaft and flight. Precisely the combination makes a set personal – two players with the same barrel can have a completely different dart in hand.

Tip

The steel tip is replaceable and available in different lengths, colours and with or without grip. If you hold the dart far forward, a grip tip is pleasant. Darts with a screw system (Target Swiss Point, Winmau Switch Point, Bull's CP) allow you to change the tip in seconds. Check out screw tips, classic tips and tips-tools & maintenance.

Barrel

The barrel determines the weight and the grip. Entry-level darts are made of brass or nickel silver; serious darts of tungsten. The percentage (usually 70% to 98%) says how much tungsten is in the alloy: the higher, the heavier the material and thus the slimmer the barrel at the same weight. Slimmer means that your darts fit closer together in the board. 100% tungsten does not exist – then the dart becomes too brittle.

Unsure about the weight? Most players throw with 22 to 24 grams; that is also the best starting point. Heavier darts (25–26 g) fly more stably, lighter darts (18–21 g) require a more precise throw. Check out all darts or start with darts for beginners.

Shaft

The shaft connects the barrel to the flight and determines the balance together with the flight. Lengths range from mini and extra short to medium and long. Nylon is light and affordable, aluminium and titanium are sturdier. Rule of thumb: if your dart dives nose down, try a longer shaft or larger flight; if it comes into the board with the tail up, a shorter shaft helps. Check out all shafts.

Flight

The flight stabilises the dart. The larger the surface, the more carrying capacity: a standard (No.2) flight is the safe choice and fits heavier darts or a calmer throw. Smaller shapes like slim and pear fly flatter and faster, and take up less space in the board. The thickness is expressed in microns (75 to 180); 100 microns is the most used and lasts a lot longer than a thin flight. A flight protector protects the flight against incoming tips. Check out all flights.

Darts and clothing

At home you throw in whatever you want, but in official matches a dress code usually applies: a dart shirt with a collar, dark trousers and no head covering. A good shirt fits loosely and is breathable, so your arm can move freely. Many players put their nickname on the back and teams play in the same clothing. Check out dart shirts or have a shirt in your own design made.

A little history

Beautiful stories go around about the origin of darts: soldiers throwing with broken spears at the bottom of a wine barrel, and the Pilgrim Fathers playing the game on board the Mayflower in 1620. It is certain that the game became big in English pubs and only really broke through in the Netherlands due to the successes of Raymond van Barneveld.

The oldest world championship is that of the BDO/WDF, played for years in the Lakeside Country Club in Frimley Green. In 1992 the PDC was created, now the largest association with the most prestigious world championship. Dutch players like Roland Scholten, Raymond van Barneveld (2006), Jelle Klaasen, Vincent van der Voort and Michael van Gerwen (2007) made the switch – and with Michael van Gerwen and now a new generation, the Netherlands is still at the forefront.

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